the suit fit guide

Are you anxious about not being able to pull off a suit at your next formal party since you know next to nothing about suit fits? Well, worry no more, we’ve got your back. Finding a suit for yourself can prove to be a great hassle if you don't know what you’re looking for.

Contrary to popular belief, suits sitting on the shelves of high-end fashion shops might not be the right one for you. Buying the wrong fit can spoil your plans for looking like the next Chris Hemsworth and might just make you the joke of the party.

We understand that you’ll be pretty stressed out under these circumstances, which is why we’ve got a complete guide about suit fits right here. In this article, we’ll be talking about the hallmarks of a proper fit and how to choose one that’s best for your body figure. So, keep reading!

How To Get The Right Suit Fit?

You need to take care of many factors when you’re picking out a suit for yourself. Here's a list of things you should take care of while picking out a suit for yourself. Doing so will ensure your suit fits you just right.


Shoulders should be the first thing to check. Shoulders go a long way into defining your outfit. For the perfect look, you need shoulders that fit you just right. That means the seam on top of the shoulder measures the same as the bone under it. Moreover, the point where it meets the sleeve of your suit should be directly in line with the point where your arm meets your shoulder. Seams that crease above your shoulders or those that hang below create a very unattractive look and might just mess up your entire outfit.

suit shoulders should fit just right

Image: ArtofManiliness


A well-fit suit features a jacket that falls past the waist and covers the top curve of the buttocks. Your hands are also a pretty good indicator of appropriate jacket length. Ideally, the hem of the jacket should end right around the middle of your hands. Or, if you want to stretch it, then it will be at the point where the fingers meet the palm.

Jackets sitting on top of your buttocks with a slight flare are too short, and if it drapes over them entirely, then it’s too long. For good fit sleeves, you need your sleeves to show off at least half an inch of the shirt cuff under your jacket. You can go an inch over if you want.

Just make sure that your jacket sleeves don't entirely hide the shirt sleeves. Nor should the seam where your shirt cuff joins the sleeve should ever be visible. Keep a small band visible at all times, and you’ll be good.

the hem of the jacket should end right around the middle of your hands
Image: ArtofManiliness



Good collars make all the difference between a poorly-fit suit and a well-fit one. For a neat look, the shirt collar should rest against the back of your neck, with the jacket collar resting on top of it. There shouldn't be any significant gap between them. Loose collars will easily stand out, while a tight one will surely bother you.

Once you turn side to side, the tight collar will wrinkle the shirt and create creases. A bad collar fit is also indicative of lousy shoulder fitting and a wrong back panel. So, look out!

the shirt collar should rest against the back of your neck, with the jacket collar resting on top of it

Image: ArtofManiliness


When it comes to pants for men, you don't want one that creases around your hips and legs or one that just hangs low. For a stylish look, you need your pants to drape over your lower region smoothly.

A good pair of pants lie loosely against your underwear without sticking too tightly to your butt or draping around your ankles. On the other hand, pants with U-shaped sags on your thighs and horizontal wrinkles are a hallmark of poor fits.

A good pair of pants lie loosely against your underwear without sticking too tightly to your butt

Image: ArtofManiliness

Trouser Break

Many people are unaware, but a trouser break is a small angle at the top of the shoe. The shoe stops the trouser from entirely falling. Though a small feature, it goes a long way in giving you that well-groomed look. The break should rest exactly on top of your shoe - not above it and neither below it. You can let it fall a bit more at the back as long as it doesn't touch the heel of the shoe.

the trouser break should rest exactly on top of your shoe

Image: ArtofManiliness

The Jacket Closure

You should never neglect the front of your jacket. When trying on fits, pay extra attention to how the jacket closes over you. The proper fit will have the jacket close over smoothly without any creases or holds, nor will it hang loose. Moreover, when you close one single button in the middle, the two halves should pull apart to form a sharp triangle.

the jacket should close over smoothly without any creases or holds

Image: ArtofManiliness


You might want to overlook these tiny things on mens suits, but we would advise against it. Properly buttoned suits do wonders for your look. To do so, you need to follow the sometimes, always, and never rule.

According to this rule, it is sometimes ok to button your top button as the situation calls for it. However, it should always be done with the middle button buttoned up. With that said, the middle one always stays that way. This button effectively pulls the jacket together and makes you look classy and elegant.

As for the last one, that stays open forever. If you decide to close it, know that it’ll mess up the indented flare and tailoring that shines with the middle button closed. 

Properly buttoned suits do wonders for your look

Image: ArtofManiliness

What Are The Types Of Suit Fits?

In this section, we’ll be going over the different types of suit fits. Generally, there are three types in the market these days for people to choose from. Each of them has been discussed briefly as follows.

The Classic Fit

A classic fit (also called as regular fit) boasts of a traditional American cut. The suit priorities the wearer’s comfort above all. They can thank the great cutting style through the waist and chest. It hangs loose but not too loose as to give you a baggy look. Men in the corporate world vastly prefer these suits for their comfort and all-weather suitableness.

The regular or classic cut priorities the wearer’s comfort above all

Image: Google

Slim Fit Suit

A slim fit suit boasts of a European or Italian cut. These do an excellent job of hugging your figure without going over the top. It features a narrow cut without utilising too much fabric. The slim suit works perfectly well for those with lean body types. These suits have been trendy ever since James Bonds dashed around in them in the movies.


The slim suit works perfectly well for those with lean body types

Image: Google

Tailored Fit Suit (Modern Fit)

This is the cut that Jack Martin uses for their suits. The modern fit suit has a style somewhere between classic and slim fit suits. It isn't that tightly adhered as a slim fit, nor does it have a room like the classic fit. It allows complete body mobility and comfort as its comforts. Plus, it has higher armholes and is tapered through the hips and thighs. It also sits low on the waist and has a fitted chest.

It isn't that tightly adhered as a slim fit, nor does it have a room like the classic fit

Image: Google

What Is The Best Suit Fit For Your Body?

People have different body types. So, a suit that looks good on one person might not look good on someone else. With that said, you need to determine what body type you are and then dress accordingly. Only then will you have a suit that perfectly compliments the physique. We’ve got a guide for you right here!

There are a total of five different body types. Each of them has been discussed in full detail as follows.

the body types for suits

Image: Google

The Triangle

If you have hips and waists larger than your chest and shoulders, you fit the triangle body type. Men with triangle body types need to draw attention away from their lower half and lessen its effect. To do that, you can wear suits that bring about your shoulders.

Suits with structured shoulders emphasize your shoulders. Doing so makes your frame look more square than it actually is. However, be careful not to wear suits with shoulders that are too wide. These will look oversized and will give you a more clumsy look instead of a crisp one. Secondly, you need to draw attention away from your waist.

Single-breasted suits do a great job of making your waist look narrower than it is. Double breasted suits, on the other hand, put too much emphasis on your stomach. It would be best if you also tried to avoid details like ticket pockets that bring attention to your stomach area.

Lastly, for triangle body types, trousers with wider and straightener legs are the best option. You might feel like going for skinny trousers that are much more fashionable these days, but we would advise against that.

Men with triangle body types need to draw attention away from their lower half

Image: Google

Inverted Triangle

Men with inverted triangle body types are in direct contrast to those with triangle body types. They have significantly broader shoulders and chests, usually the result of hitting them too hard at the gym. Suits for men of these body types need to balance the lower and upper half. To do so, you need to soften the sharp lines of your upper torso. For this purpose, consider wearing notch lapels. Avoid shoulder padding and broad peak lines that will make your shoulders prominent.

Secondly, you need to bring people’s attention to your body’s natural shape. A well-tailored single-breasted jacket will do an excellent job in the matter.

You can also try out slim-fitting jackets that taper towards your waist. Try not to wear suits that tightly hug your figure. Such suits can make your body look inappropriate, which isn't something you want. The same goes for skinny trousers. In comparison, slim pants will do a great job of complimenting your figure.

triangle body types need to balance the lower and upper half

Image: Google

The Oval

Men who have a midsection wider than their shoulders and hips fit the oval body type. Although it is not the most flattering of body types, you can still find a suit to make you look dapper. Most men in this category tend to go for oversized suits in an attempt to accommodate their body type.

However, what they don't realize is that they’re making a huge mistake. Choosing such a suit only makes your body shape stand out more. You want to go for a long and lean look, not something unflattering. A well-tailored single-breasted jacket is just perfect for the job. Such a jacket effectively creates the illusion of a narrow waist.

You can also add structure shoulders to your suit to give it that authoritative element it’s been missing. Make sure to keep the width of the shoulders correct, though. You can also create vertical visual lines to help your cause. For this purpose, go for herringbone on a dark base or a narrow pinstripe suit.

Horizontal patterns and a large check suit is a big no in this regard. Choosing a solid dark color will also help you out. You can also add peak lapels to make yourself look taller and overall improve proportions. Most of all, you need to avoid bringing focus to your stomach.

With that said, completely avoid double-breasted suits and ticket pockets. You can, however, go for pocket squares. As for pants, go for wider and straighter ones.

a large check suit is a big no for the oval body type

Image: Google

The Trapezoid

Men with trapezoid body types truly hit the jackpot with their body types. They have a torso that’s broadest at the shoulder and only slightly narrow at the waist and hip. These body types are considered the average build in the fashion industry, which is why they can easily find suits tailored to their figure.

With their upper and lower body in perfect balance, men of this category don't have to worry too much. You can go for bold patterns, colours, and fabric combinations without freaking too much about messing it up. A slim fit suit or tailored fit suit does a great job of complementing your body’s lines and edges, bringing out your V shape.

Even with this ideal body type, you have a few things on your “avoid” checklist. These include aggressively tapered pants and a tight-fit suit that makes it look like you’re suffocating.

Men with trapezoid body types truly hit the jackpot for selecting any suits they want

Image: Google

The Column

Men with a torso of the same width from the shoulder to the waist and hips fit the column body type. Men belonging to this category should strive for a more sculpted look. To do so, simply narrow your waist and widen your shoulders.

A well-fit single-breasted jacket is perfect in this regard. Shoulder padding will also do wonders for your upper torso. You should, however, altogether avoid double-breasted jackets. They only bring about your rectangular shape more than intended. It would be best if you also tailored your sleeves to remove any bagginess.

As for trousers, go for tapered trousers. Plated pants wider around the hip and thighs will also compliment your lower body’s definition. Straighter trousers are a big no since they only add to your natural shape.

Men belonging to this category should strive for a more sculpted suits for men

Image: Google

That’s all for the body type variations. You might be confused that none of these body types factor in height but don't worry. In our next section, we talk about bodysuit choices for short and tall men. So, read ahead!


For Short Men

As someone belonging to the short category, your job is to create a long vertical line with your suit. Such a suit creates the illusion of tallness. A single-breasted suit will do wonders in this regard. With that, an upward-pointing peak lapel and trouser rise will also help you make the perfect look.

You can also go for mid or high-rise pants for adding a few inches to your short legs. Moreover, it would be perfect if you also tried out narrow lapels and shorter jackets.

for short men it is critical to create a long vertical line with their suits

Image: Google

For Big and Tall

For big and tall men, it’s all about bringing balance to your proportions and not looking too much like big foot. Usually, men of this category have trouble finding the perfect fit in shop racks, so going for custom-made suits makes much more sense. Please note that we offer big and tall suits for size up to 58 with longer trousers.

When deciding on your suit, keep in mind that the suit jacket length will play a key role in bringing about a balance between your upper and lower body. A jacket length halfway between the floor and the back of the suit collar is the safest option.

However, men with lower torsos can shorten the jacket to fit their needs better. You can also go for double-breasted jackets and peak lapels. As for pants, just make sure they break cleanly without creasing too much on top of mens formal shoes.

jack martin offers a wide range of big and tall suits

Image: Google


Summing it up, choosing a perfect suit for yourself is a long process - one which you cannot rush along. To grab all the attention at your party, you need to pay attention to your suit's details. Things like collars, sleeves, and trousers break to play a significant role in making your suit look just right.

Moreover, you must choose a suit that compliments your body figure flawlessly. Fortunately, after reading this article, you should have a pretty good idea of how to go about that. If you're still confused about how to choose a suit for yourself, feel free to reach out to us! 

December 04, 2021

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